Every
action provokes a reaction, a fact that is seldom truer than in the fickle
world of fragrance.
Our senses are both subjective and
sensitive, so to overload them is never going to make them very happy and it
seems that the fragrance-wearing population has said enough is enough to all
the fruity, floral scents that currently dominate the fragrance world.
While i may love them, for others these
saccharine scents appear to be giving some
of us toothache!
Because of this, an opening
has been created for serious, sophisticated and complex scents.
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| Actress Rita Hayworth with a collection of fragrances |
Hurrah I hear you cry!
Now days It’s not
enough to simply glue a label onto a bottle alluding to its integrity, people
want to know that the best ingredients have been sourced to create an intricate
and beautifully structured accord.
‘Accord’ How posh, go me!
Elegant, expensive
ingredients smell precisely that, and right now the general mood is for the
juiciest, darkest and most intense notes.
They are
sophisticated, substantial and seductive.
There has been a
massive resurgence of white flower scents in the last couple of years:
tuberose, gardenia, orange blossom, jasmine and lily of the valley.
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| Lily of the Valley |
Indeed, I had Lily of the valley in my wedding bouquet and it
smells divine!
They might sound old
fashioned, but they are, in fact, the grandes dames of perfumery.
They’ve been around,
they’ve seen it all and they have the power to give authority and old-world
elegance to an accord.
A recent addition to Tom Ford’s Private Blend line, Jasmin Rouge, is a fab example of such a
fragrance, which is essentially an interpretation of the modern white flowers.
Ford took time to
source sambac jasmine sepals absolute, a rarely used jasmine derivative, which
has the sweetest, most heady scent.
Combined with sage,
the jasmine takes on a spellbinding dimension.
Tom Ford isn’t the
only one!
Valentino has taken
its existing Valentina scent and created the Assoluto, concentrating the white
flower accord at the fragrance’s heart (tuberose, orange flower, jasmine) and
adding to it a more classic chypre base.
Instantly, this
fragrance takes the Valentino wearer from girl to woman.
The other old school floral
star of this new generation is Rose.
The current trend is
for darker, velvety rose or antique rose, worlds away from some of it’s
competitiors.
Givenchy’s new Dahlia Noir is a perfect example of this.
Using the deepest red
roses and combing them with iris and mimosa the perfume is reminiscent of the
mythical flower, the black dahlia.
Givenchy’s Creative
Director, Riccardo Tisci, describes it as
“a fragrance crafted
like a couture gown’’
Who knew so much went into fragrance creation eh!
Dior has also looked
to the darker side of the rose for its latest addition to La Collection Privée Christian Dior: Ambre Nuit.
Turkish rose essence
was sourced and then “donned in evening wear” by being combined with amber.
In an age in which so
many things in life are disposable and replaceable, there is something very
rare and dare I say it, beautiful about this return to the ‘old school’ way of
creating timeless fragrances.
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